Color Mixing & Matching Guide
Creating Beautiful, Compliant Colors with FDA-Approved Colorants
Adding color to your products brings them to life, but it must be done safely and legally. The Color Calculator helps you create custom colors using only FDA-approved colorants while showing you exact mixing ratios, compliance indicators, and usage rates.
This guide will teach you color theory basics, how to use different types of colorants, and how to leverage the calculator to match any color while staying compliant.
Understanding FDA-Approved Colorants
Why FDA approval matters:
Only FDA-approved colorants can legally be used in cosmetics sold in the US. These colorants have been tested for safety and are listed in the Code of Federal Regulations (CFR).
The Color Calculator only shows FDA-approved options, so you can confidently create compliant products.
Types of Colorants:
Oxides (Iron Oxides):
- Natural earth tones: red, yellow, brown, black
- Very stable in soap (no pH morphing)
- Oil and water dispersible
- Usage: 0.1-2% (start low, increase gradually)
Ultramarines:
- Blues, purples, pinks
- Can morph in high pH (soap)
- Not oil-dispersible (use in water phase)
- Usage: 0.1-1% (very strong pigments)
FD&C Lakes:
- Bright, vibrant colors (reds, blues, yellows, greens)
- Oil-dispersible, don't migrate or bleed
- Can fade in high pH or light
- Usage: 0.1-0.5%
Titanium Dioxide:
- White pigment, creates pastels when mixed
- Oil and water dispersible
- Very stable
- Usage: 0.5-2% (1 tsp per lb in soap)
Micas:
- Shimmer and sparkle effects
- Only FDA-approved micas in calculator
- Oil-dispersible
- Usage: 0.5-3% for shimmer, 1-2 tsp/lb soap
Important compliance notes:
- Some colors approved for cosmetics aren't approved for lips or eye area
- Always verify your colorant is cosmetic-grade, not craft-grade
- The calculator shows compliance indicators for each colorant
Color Theory for Product Makers
Primary, Secondary, and Tertiary Colors:
Primary Colors (can't be mixed):
Red, Yellow, Blue
Secondary Colors (mix 2 primaries):
- Red + Yellow = Orange
- Yellow + Blue = Green
- Blue + Red = Purple
Tertiary Colors (mix primary + adjacent secondary):
Red-Orange, Yellow-Orange, Yellow-Green, Blue-Green, Blue-Purple, Red-Purple
Creating Tints, Shades, and Tones:
Tint (Pastel):
Color + White (Titanium Dioxide) = Lighter version
Shade (Deep):
Color + Black (Black Oxide) = Darker version
Tone (Muted):
Color + Gray (or complementary color) = Softer, earthier version
Color mixing tips:
- Start with the lightest color, add darker colors gradually
- Mix small test batches before committing to full batch
- Remember: wet color looks different than dry
- Test in actual product base (soap vs lotion colors differ)
Using the Color Calculator
Step 1: Select Your Target Color
Decide what color you want to create. Consider:
- Product type (soap, lotion, etc.)
- Desired intensity (pastel vs vibrant)
- Colorant type (oxides are most stable in soap)
Step 2: Build Your Color Mix
- Navigate to the Color Calculator
- Add your first colorant and set percentage
- Add additional colorants to adjust hue
- Add Titanium Dioxide for lighter/pastel colors
- View the resulting color preview
Step 3: Review Your Mix
The calculator shows:
- FDA compliance status for each colorant
- Total colorant percentage in your mix
- Color preview
- Printable mixing instructions
Example Color Mix - Lavender:
- 60% Titanium Dioxide (white base)
- 30% Ultramarine Purple
- 10% Ultramarine Pink
- Total usage: 0.5% of soap recipe
Result: Soft lavender pastel, FDA-compliant
Proper Dispersion Techniques
Never add colorant powder directly to your product!
This causes clumping, speckling, and uneven color. Always pre-disperse.
For Oil-Dispersible Colorants (Oxides, Lakes, most Micas):
- Measure colorant powder
- Add 2-3x volume of light oil (sweet almond, sunflower)
- Mix with mini mixer or frother until smooth and lump-free
- Add to oil phase of product, or at trace for soap
For Water-Dispersible Colorants (Ultramarines):
- Measure colorant powder
- Add 2-3x volume of glycerin or water
- Mix until completely smooth
- Add to water phase of product
For Titanium Dioxide:
- Mix with 3x volume oil (it's very thick)
- Use stick blender for 30-60 seconds
- Should be smooth and pourable
- Add to oils before adding lye water (soap) or add to oil phase (lotion)
Pro tips for dispersion:
- Pre-disperse the night before and let sit - gives better color
- Use a dedicated set of tools for colorants to prevent cross-contamination
- Label all dispersions with colorant name and ratio
- Make master batches of common colors for consistency
Colorants in Different Products
Cold Process Soap:
- Best choices: Oxides (very stable), Titanium Dioxide
- Use caution: Ultramarines (may morph), Lakes (may fade)
- Usage rate: 0.1-2% of oils (1 tsp per lb = ~1.3%)
- When to add: At light-medium trace (too early = streaks, too late = lumps)
Lotions & Creams:
- Best choices: All FDA-approved colorants work well
- Usage rate: 0.1-1% (less than soap - you want subtle color)
- When to add: To appropriate phase (oil-dispersible to oil phase, water-dispersible to water phase)
- Note: Color is more vibrant in lotion than soap
Bath Products:
- Bath bombs: All colorants work, but lakes won't stain tub
- Bath salts: Water-dispersible only (oxides, ultramarines)
- Bubble bath: Use very sparingly (0.01-0.1%) to avoid staining
Popular Color Mixing Recipes
Mint Green:
70% TD + 20% Chromium Oxide Green + 10% Ultramarine Blue
Coral:
50% TD + 30% Red Oxide + 20% Yellow Oxide
Sage Green:
60% TD + 30% Chromium Oxide + 10% Yellow Oxide
Dusty Rose:
60% TD + 30% Red Oxide + 10% Ultramarine Pink
Chocolate Brown:
40% Brown Oxide + 40% Red Oxide + 20% Black Oxide
Sky Blue:
75% TD + 25% Ultramarine Blue
Remember: These are starting ratios. Test in your specific product and adjust to achieve your desired shade!