How to Make Anhydrous Scrubs
Oil-Based Sugar Scrubs, Salt Scrubs & Exfoliating Formulations
An anhydrous scrub is a simple, water-free blend of oils and physical exfoliants — just oils, butters, and your choice of exfoliant. They leave skin feeling deeply moisturized and smooth after rinsing. Although the formula contains no water, scrubs are always used with wet hands in the shower, which introduces water and bacteria into the product. For this reason, a broad-spectrum preservative is required.
Typical Formula Structure
- Exfoliant (Sugar/Salt): 40–60%
- Liquid Oils: 25–60%
- Butters (optional): 0–25%
- Wax (optional): 0–5%
- Fragrance: 1–3%
- Preservative: Per manufacturer recommendation
- Antioxidant: Auto-calculated by the Balm Calculator based on fatty acid profile
The exfoliant percentage goes in the Additives & Actives section of the Balm Calculator. The remaining oil/butter/wax percentages should total 100% in the calculator, and the exfoliant is added on top.
Choosing Your Exfoliant
Gentle Exfoliants
- White Sugar: Fine grain, dissolves on skin, great for face and body. 5–50%
- Brown Sugar: Softer crystals with molasses, extra gentle. 5–50%
- Jojoba Beads: Perfectly round, won't scratch. 1–5%
Medium Exfoliants
- Sea Salt: Mineral-rich, slightly coarser. 5–50%. Can sting cuts.
- Epsom Salt: Magnesium sulfate, soothing for muscles. 5–50%. Dissolves easily.
- Coffee Grounds: Natural, adds color and scent. 3–10%. Can stain.
- Poppy Seeds: Decorative, light exfoliation. 1–5%. May settle.
Strong Exfoliants
- Pumice Powder: Volcanic mineral, very effective. 2–15%. Best for feet and rough patches.
Best Oils for Scrubs
- Sweet Almond Oil: Lightweight, great slip, affordable. Good all-purpose base.
- Coconut Oil (Fractionated): Stays liquid, non-greasy, long shelf life.
- Jojoba Oil: Mimics skin's sebum, absorbs well. More expensive.
- Grapeseed Oil: Very light, fast absorbing. Shorter shelf life.
- Avocado Oil: Rich and nourishing, good for dry skin.
Adding 5–10% melted shea or cocoa butter creates a thicker, more luxurious scrub that holds together better.
Basic Process
- 1. Weigh Your Oils: Measure liquid oils (and melt any butters) using a digital scale. Work in grams for accuracy.
- 2. Melt Butters (if using): Gently melt shea, cocoa, or mango butter in a double boiler. Remove from heat once liquid.
- 3. Combine Oils: Mix all liquid oils and melted butters together. Stir well.
- 4. Cool to 140°F (60°C): Allow the oil blend to cool slightly before adding fragrance.
- 5. Add Fragrance, Preservative & Antioxidant: Stir in essential oils or fragrance oil, your preservative, and an antioxidant (the Balm Calculator auto-calculates the exact antioxidant amount based on the fatty acid content of your oils).
- 6. Fold in Exfoliant: Add your sugar, salt, or other exfoliant. Stir gently until evenly distributed.
- 7. Package: Spoon into jars. Tap gently to settle. Label with ingredients and date.
Important Tips
- Never add water or water-based ingredients (aloe, hydrosols) to an anhydrous scrub — preservatives designed for anhydrous systems may not protect a water phase.
- Always include a broad-spectrum preservative — wet hands in the shower introduce water and bacteria into every jar.
- Salt scrubs should not be used on the face or freshly shaved/broken skin.
- Sugar scrubs will dissolve in the shower — this is normal and part of the exfoliation.
Shelf Life & Storage
- Typical shelf life: 6–12 months, depending on the oils used.
- Storage: Keep in airtight jars away from heat and moisture.
- Antioxidant: The Balm Calculator analyzes the fatty acid profile of your oils and auto-calculates exactly how much antioxidant your formula needs to prevent rancidity.
- Oil separation: Some separation is normal. Stir before use. Adding a small amount of butter helps.
Frequently Asked Questions
Related Resources
Tip: Use the Balm Calculator
Select "Scrub - Anhydrous" as your product type in the Balm Calculator. It will validate your formula, require a preservative and exfoliant, auto-calculate antioxidant needs based on your oils' fatty acid profiles, and generate a complete INCI list.