How to Make Face Wash

Gentle Facial Cleanser Formulation Guide

Facial cleansing is the most frequent step in any skincare routine, yet it is also the most likely to cause irritation if formulated incorrectly. Unlike body skin, facial skin is thinner, has a higher density of sebaceous glands, and is more prone to barrier disruption. A well-formulated face wash must remove excess sebum and debris without stripping the vital lipids that keep the skin barrier intact.

This guide focuses on mild surfactant selection, low Active Surfactant Matter (ASM) targets, and precise pH control to create professional-grade facial cleansers. Using the BubbleMath calculator, you can ensure your surfactant blends are balanced, stable, and gentle enough for daily use.

Face Wash Formulation

What makes a face wash different?

Facial cleansers prioritize mildness over heavy grease-cutting power. Key characteristics include:

Low ASM (5–10%): Significantly lower concentration than body wash.
Mild Anionics: Utilizing glutamates, sarcosinates, and sulfosuccinates instead of SLS/SLES.
Optimal pH (5.0–5.5): Essential for maintaining the skin's acid mantle.
High Humectancy: Glycerin and other humectants offset the drying effect of water.

Phase	Typical %	Key Ingredients
Water Phase	65–75%	Distilled Water, Glycerin, Chelators, Thickener
Surfactant Phase	10–18%	Amino Acid Anionics, Glucosides, CAPB
Structure/Additives	1–5%	Refatters, Pearlizers, Emollients
Cool Down	3–8%	Preservative, Fragrance, Actives (HA, Niacinamide)

Safety & Sanitation

Eye Safety & Mildness

Face washes are used near the eyes. Avoid harsh surfactants and high fragrance levels. Always use broad-spectrum preservation as water-based cleansers are highly susceptible to contamination.

Sanitize all beakers, spatulas, and bottles with 70% isopropyl alcohol.
Use only distilled or deionized water.
Wear gloves and a mask when handling powdered surfactants like SLSa.

Equipment Needed

Essential:

0.1g Precision Scale
Heat-safe Glass Beakers
Overhead Stirrer or Gentle Hand Mixer
pH Meter (essential for accuracy)

Optional:

Homogenizer (for polymer gels)
Vacuum Degasser (to remove air bubbles)

Formulate with BubbleMath

Formula Setup

Select Face Wash as your product type. BubbleMath will automatically:

Set the target ASM range to 5–10%.
Target a skin-friendly pH of 5.0–5.5.
Provide architecture hints for facial cleansing.

Choose Gel/Cream for a standard gel cleanser, or Foaming Pump if you are using a foam pump bottle.

Water Phase

Water is QS (Quantum Satis), automatically adjusting to reach 100%. For face wash, prioritize humectants:

Glycerin (2–5%): Essential for skin feel and hydration.
Propanediol (2–5%): A light, non-sticky humectant and solvent.
Chelators: Add Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate (0.1%) to boost preservative efficacy.

Surfactant System

This is the heart of your face wash. Use Auto Mode in BubbleMath to set your target ASM to 8%.

Recommended Blend:

Primary Anionic: Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate or Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate (8–12%).
Amphoteric: Cocamidopropyl Betaine (3–6%) to boost mildness and foam stability.
Nonionic: Coco Glucoside or Decyl Glucoside (2–5%) for extra gentleness.

Structure & Additives

Most mild face wash surfactants do not thicken with salt. You must use a polymer:

HEC (Hydroxyethylcellulose): 0.5–1.5% for a crystal-clear silky gel.
Xanthan Gum: 0.1–0.5% for natural thickening (can feel slightly tacky).

Add Refatters like PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (1–2%) to restore lipids and leave the skin feeling soft.

Cool Down

Add heat-sensitive ingredients once the batch is below 104°F (40°C):

Preservative: Liquid Germall Plus or Euxyl PE 9010 (0.5–1%).
Actives: Niacinamide (1–3%), Aloe Vera 200x (0.1%), or Panthenol (1%).
Fragrance: Keep very low (0.1–0.5%) or fragrance-free for sensitive skin.

Manufacturing Steps

Phase A (Water)

Combine distilled water, chelators, and humectants. If using HEC, disperse it in glycerin first to avoid clumps, then add to the water with high-shear mixing.

Phase B (Surfactants)

Gently stir your surfactant blend into the water phase. Use slow, consistent mixing to avoid creating excessive foam.

Heating (if needed)

If using solid surfactants or pearlizers, heat both phases to 158°F (70°C) before combining. If using all-liquid surfactants, no heat is required.

Phase C (Structure)

Add refatters and any oil-soluble additives. Mix until homogeneous.

Cool Down

Allow the batch to cool below 104°F (40°C). Add preservatives, fragrance, and active ingredients.

pH Adjustment

Check the pH. Use a 10% Citric Acid solution to lower it to 5.0–5.5. This step is critical for facial skin health.

Troubleshooting

If…	Then…	Solution
Formula is too thin	Insufficient thickener hydration	Increase your polymer (HEC) concentration or ensure you've allowed enough time for hydration.
Cloudy appearance	Incompatibility or solubility issue	Check surfactant compatibility in BubbleMath. Use a solubilizer for high fragrance loads.
Skin feels tight	ASM target is too high	Reduce the ASM target or increase humectants and refatters.

Tip: Build your formula in BubbleMath

BubbleMath handles ASM calculations, charge conflict checks, salt thickening viability, and safety validation.

Open BubbleMath →