How to Read an INCI Ingredient List
Ingredient order, common names decoded, and what to look for
Every cosmetic product sold in the US, EU, and most regulated markets is required to list its ingredients in a standardized format called INCI — the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. Once you understand how INCI lists work, you can read any cosmetic ingredient list and know roughly what you're looking at, how much is there, and what it's doing.
The Most Important Rule: Order by Weight
Ingredients are listed from highest to lowest concentration by weight. The ingredient at the top of the list is the most abundant ingredient in the formula. This is the single most useful piece of information for evaluating a product.
What this means in practice
- If "Aqua" (water) is first, you're buying mostly water. This is normal for lotions.
- If a marketing ingredient (argan oil, retinol) is at the very end, it's likely under 1%.
- Actives like Vitamin C or Niacinamide should be in the top third for efficacy.
Exception: Ingredients present at 1% or less can be listed in any order at the end of the list. Colorants and fragrance/parfum are usually listed last regardless of amount.
Common Ingredient Names Decoded
INCI uses Latin and scientific names. Here are the ones that confuse people most:
| INCI Name | What It Is |
|---|---|
| Aqua | Water |
| Glycerin / Glycerol | Humectant; draws moisture to skin |
| Sodium Chloride | Table salt; used as thickener or texture agent |
| Tocopherol | Vitamin E; antioxidant |
| Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride | Fractionated coconut oil; lightweight emollient |
| Butyrospermum Parkii | Shea butter |
| Simmondsia Chinensis | Jojoba oil |
| Phenoxyethanol | Synthetic preservative |
| Cetyl Alcohol | Fatty alcohol; thickener (not drying) |
| Dimethicone | Silicone; for slip and skin protection |
| Carbomer | Polymer thickener/gelling agent |
| Sodium Laureth Sulfate | Primary cleansing surfactant (SLES) |
| Cocamidopropyl Betaine | Gentle secondary surfactant |
| Disodium EDTA | Chelator; stabilizes formula |
| Citric Acid | pH adjuster |
Soap INCI: Why It Looks Different
Bar soap INCI looks nothing like lotion INCI because saponification is a transformative chemical reaction. On a soap label, you'll see:
| Soap INCI Name | Means this oil was used |
|---|---|
| Sodium Olivate | Olive oil |
| Sodium Cocoate | Coconut oil |
| Sodium Palmate | Palm oil |
| Sodium Shea Butterate | Shea butter |
| Sodium Castorate | Castor oil |
| Potassium Olivate | Olive oil saponified with KOH (liquid soap) |
SoapMath generates your soap's INCI list automatically as part of the results, including both the saponified names and the common name list for labeling purposes.
Frequently Asked Questions
Tip: Look up any ingredient
The Ingredient Encyclopedia lists INCI names, functions, usage rates, and formulation data for all 350+ ingredients in the database.