Selecting Emollients for Your Emulsions
Choose the Perfect Oils & Butters for Your Lotion Formulations
Choosing the right emollients (oils and butters) is crucial for creating lotions and creams with the perfect texture, absorption, and skin feel. The wrong combination can lead to greasy products, poor absorption, or unstable formulas. This guide will teach you how to select emollients based on polarity, texture profiles, and skin type compatibility using the SoapMath lotion calculator's comprehensive ingredient database.
The lotion calculator includes 38+ emollients with detailed polarity indicators, helping you create balanced formulations that feel amazing on skin and remain stable over time.
Understanding Polarity in Emollients
What is Polarity?
Polarity describes whether an ingredient is attracted to water (polar) or oil (non-polar). This affects how ingredients mix with each other and how they feel on skin.
- Polar (Water-loving): Mix well with water phase, absorb quickly, lighter feel
- Non-polar (Oil-loving): More occlusive, richer feel, slower absorption
- Amphiphilic: Love both water and oil (like Squalane)
How the Lotion Calculator Shows Polarity:
Each emollient in the calculator is marked with its polarity characteristic:
- • Water-loving emollients: Examples include Dimethicone, some esters
- • Oil-loving emollients: Examples include most plant oils and butters
- • Both: Versatile ingredients like Squalane
Texture Profiles: Dry Feel vs. Rich Feel
Dry-Feel Emollients (Fast Absorbing)
Light, non-greasy, absorb quickly. Perfect for lotions, serums, and oily skin.
- • Jojoba Oil: Lightweight, fast-absorbing, balances sebum
- • Grapeseed Oil: Very light, high in linoleic acid
- • Squalane: Dry feel, non-comedogenic, versatile
- • Dimethicone: Silky slip, no greasy residue
- • Cyclomethicone: Evaporates leaving dry finish
- • Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: Lightweight ester, excellent slip
Rich-Feel Emollients (Occlusive & Nourishing)
Heavy, moisturizing, protective barrier. Perfect for creams, body butters, and dry skin.
- • Shea Butter: Rich, occlusive, deeply moisturizing
- • Cocoa Butter: Very hard butter, protective barrier
- • Avocado Oil: Thick, penetrating, vitamin-rich
- • Coconut Oil: Semi-solid, quickly absorbed but rich
- • Mango Butter: Soft butter, lighter than cocoa
- • Sweet Almond Oil: Moderately rich, good all-purpose
Emollient Categories in the Calculator
Plant Oils (Liquid at Room Temperature)
Versatile, easy to work with, wide range of textures and fatty acid profiles.
Light oils: Grapeseed, Jojoba, Apricot Kernel, Sunflower
Medium oils: Sweet Almond, Olive Oil, Safflower, Rice Bran
Rich oils: Avocado, Castor, Evening Primrose, Argan
Butters (Solid at Room Temperature)
Add thickness, richness, and occlusive properties. Melt during heating phase.
Hard butters: Cocoa Butter (protective, waxy)
Soft butters: Shea Butter, Mango Butter (spreadable, conditioning)
Usage: 5-20% for creams, up to 50% for body butters
Specialty Emollients
Unique properties for specific formulation needs.
Squalane: Biomimetic, fast-absorbing, all skin types
Dimethicone/Cyclomethicone: Silky slip, frizz control, dry finish
IPM/IPP: Emollient esters, excellent spreadability
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: Lightweight, non-greasy carrier
Matching Emollients to Skin Type
Oily & Acne-Prone Skin
Use lightweight, non-comedogenic (0-2 rating) emollients that won't clog pores.
Best choices: Jojoba Oil, Grapeseed Oil, Squalane, Rosehip Seed Oil, Dimethicone
Normal & Combination Skin
Balanced emollients that hydrate without being too heavy.
Best choices: Sweet Almond Oil, Sunflower Oil, Apricot Kernel Oil, Light Shea Butter
Dry & Mature Skin
Rich, occlusive emollients that lock in moisture and repair skin barrier.
Best choices: Shea Butter, Avocado Oil, Cocoa Butter, Evening Primrose Oil, Argan Oil
Sensitive & Irritated Skin
Gentle, soothing emollients with anti-inflammatory properties.
Best choices: Oat Oil, Safflower Oil, Sunflower Oil, Calendula Oil, Squalane
Formulation Guidelines
Oil Phase Percentages
- Light Lotions: 5-15% oil phase (mostly dry-feel oils)
- Rich Creams: 15-30% oil phase (balance of oils + butters)
- Body Butters: 30-50% oil phase (butter-dominant)
- W/O Emulsions: 15-40% oil phase (check emulsifier limits)
Blending Strategy
- 60/40 Rule: 60% stable oils (longer shelf life), 40% specialty/therapeutic oils
- Layer textures: Combine one rich + one light oil for balance
- Consider polarity: Mix polar and non-polar for better distribution
- Add antioxidants: Both calculators analyze your oils' PUFA/MUFA profiles and recommend the exact amount needed (0.05-0.5% range depending on oil blend)
Using the Lotion Calculator
- Select emollients from the "Emollients" category
- Check polarity indicators (water-loving, oil-loving, both)
- Review compatibility warnings (electrolyte sensitivity, minerals)
- Balance oil phase within emulsifier limits (calculator shows max %)
Popular Emollient Combinations
Light Face Lotion
8% Jojoba Oil + 4% Squalane + 3% Dimethicone = 15% total oil phase
Rich Hand Cream
10% Shea Butter + 8% Sweet Almond Oil + 4% Cocoa Butter + 3% Dimethicone = 25% total oil phase
Anti-Aging Night Cream
8% Argan Oil + 5% Avocado Oil + 5% Shea Butter + 2% Rosehip Seed Oil = 20% total oil phase
Body Butter
20% Shea Butter + 10% Mango Butter + 8% Coconut Oil + 4% Jojoba Oil = 42% total oil phase
Frequently Asked Questions
Related Resources
Tip: Use the Help Me Pick Ingredients Wizard
After learning about emollients, use the Help Me Pick Ingredients wizard in the Lotion Calculator to get personalized emollient recommendations based on your skin concern and desired texture. It includes natural and vegan filters.