Exfoliant Comparison Chart
Particle Size, Gentleness, Usage Rates & Skin Type Suitability
Choosing the right exfoliant is the most important decision in scrub formulation. Each exfoliant has different particle sizes, hardness, dissolution behavior, and skin compatibility. This chart compares the exfoliants available in the Balm Calculator so you can choose the best fit for your product type and target skin area.
Quick Comparison
| Exfoliant | Type | Particle Size | Gentleness | Usage Rate | Dissolves | Settles |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| White Sugar (Fine) | Sugar | Fine (0.3–0.5 mm) | Gentle | 5–50% | Yes | No |
| Brown Sugar | Sugar | Fine–Medium (0.3–0.8 mm) | Very Gentle | 5–50% | Yes | No |
| Sea Salt | Salt | Medium–Coarse (0.5–2 mm) | Aggressive | 5–50% | No | No |
| Epsom Salt | Salt | Medium (0.5–1.5 mm) | Moderate | 5–50% | Yes | No |
| Sodium Chloride (Table/Fine Salt) | Salt | Fine–Medium (0.3–1 mm) | Moderate | 5–50% | Yes | No |
| Jojoba Beads | Wax-Based | Very Fine (0.2–0.5 mm) | Very Gentle | 1–10% | No | No |
| Pumice Powder | Mineral | Fine–Medium (0.1–1 mm, varies by grind) | Very Aggressive | 2–15% | No | Yes |
| Coffee Grounds | Botanical | Medium (0.5–1.5 mm) | Moderate | 3–10% | No | Yes |
| Poppy Seeds | Botanical | Fine (0.5–1 mm) | Gentle | 1–5% | No | Yes |
Detailed Profiles
Choosing by Skin Area
Face
Use only jojoba beads (best — perfectly round, no sharp edges) or poppy seeds (light exfoliation). Avoid all sugars and salts on the face — sugar crystals have sharp angular edges that cause micro-tears on delicate facial skin, even though they dissolve. Salt, pumice, and coffee grounds are also too abrasive for facial use.
Body (General)
Most exfoliants work for general body use. Sugar and Epsom salt are popular choices. Coffee grounds add a stimulating element. Match particle size and gentleness to the desired intensity — fine sugar for a gentle daily scrub, coarser salt for a weekly deep exfoliation.
Feet, Elbows & Rough Patches
These areas can handle more aggressive exfoliants. Pumice powder is the top choice for callused feet. Coarse sea salt works well for elbows and knees. Use higher percentages (15–50%) for these thick-skinned areas.
Sensitive or Compromised Skin
Stick with jojoba beads only — their round, smooth shape is the least likely to cause irritation or micro-tears. Keep usage rates at the lower end of the range. Avoid all sugars (crystalline edges), salts (sting broken skin), and pumice (too abrasive).
Key Behaviors
Dissolving Exfoliants
Sugar and Epsom salt dissolve during use. This means the scrub starts abrasive and becomes smoother as you work it into the skin. Great for face and sensitive areas. The downside: you can't re-scrub the same area with the same intensity.
Non-Dissolving Exfoliants
Jojoba beads, pumice, coffee, and poppy seeds maintain their abrasiveness throughout use. Consistent exfoliation from start to finish. Better for targeted areas like feet and elbows where you want sustained scrubbing power.
Settling Exfoliants
Pumice powder, coffee grounds, and poppy seeds are denser than oil and will sink to the bottom of the jar. Add 5–10% solid butter or use an emulsified scrub base to increase viscosity and keep particles suspended.
Combining Exfoliants
Mixing a dissolving exfoliant (sugar) with a non-dissolving one (jojoba beads) creates a two-phase scrub: initial strong exfoliation from sugar that fades, plus sustained gentle exfoliation from the beads. Keep total exfoliant in the recommended range.
Frequently Asked Questions
Related Resources
Tip: Use the Balm Calculator
Select "Scrub - Anhydrous" or "Scrub - Emulsified" as your product type. The calculator validates that your formula includes a physical exfoliant and preservative, auto-calculates antioxidant needs based on your oils' fatty acid profiles, and generates a complete INCI list.