How to Make Cleansing Balm
Makeup Melting Balm
A cleansing balm (also called makeup melting balm) is an oil-based cleanser in solid form that melts on contact with skin. When massaged, it dissolves makeup, sunscreen, and impurities. The key difference from regular balms is the inclusion of emulsifying wax, which allows the product to rinse clean with water. Cleansing balms are part of the popular K-beauty "oil cleansing" method and are gentle enough for daily use.
Typical Formulation Ratios
- Emulsifying Wax: 10-20% (required for rinse-off)
- Regular Waxes: 0-5% (optional, for texture)
- Butters: 10-30% (adds richness)
- Liquid Oils: 55-85% (the cleansing base)
Key Ingredients
Essential: Emulsifying Wax
Regular beeswax will NOT work - you must use an emulsifying wax for the product to rinse off. Without it, you'll have a regular oil balm that doesn't wash away.
Emulsifying Waxes (10-20%)
- Polawax: Reliable, widely available
- BTMS-50: Conditioning, good for cleansers
- Olivem 1000: Natural, olive-derived
- Emulsifying Wax NF: Common choice
Best Cleansing Oils (55-85%)
Choose lightweight oils that won't clog pores:
- MCT Oil: Very lightweight, non-comedogenic
- Sunflower Oil: High in linoleic acid, good for acne-prone skin
- Grapeseed Oil: Light, fast-absorbing
- Castor Oil: Adds cleansing power (use 5-20%)
Optional Butters (10-30%)
- Shea Butter: Nourishing, creamy texture
- Mango Butter: Lightweight, less greasy
- Cocoa Butter: Adds firmness
How Cleansing Balms Work
- 1. Melt: The solid balm melts on contact with warm skin.
- 2. Dissolve: Oils dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and sebum (like dissolves like).
- 3. Emulsify: When water is added, the emulsifying wax turns the oil into a milky emulsion.
- 4. Rinse: The emulsified mixture rinses away cleanly with water.
Basic Process
- 1. Weigh Ingredients: Accuracy is important, especially for the emulsifying wax percentage.
- 2. Melt Emulsifying Wax & Butters: Gently heat in a double boiler until fully melted.
- 3. Add Liquid Oils: Remove from heat and stir in liquid oils.
- 4. Add Optional Ingredients: At 140°F, add vitamin E or light fragrance if desired.
- 5. Pour into Jars: Pour into wide-mouth jars for easy access.
- 6. Cool & Test: Let cool completely, then test the rinse-off to ensure it emulsifies properly.
Frequently Asked Questions
Tip: Use the Help Me Pick Ingredients Wizard
Not sure which waxes, butters, and oils to use? The Help Me Pick Ingredients wizard in the Balm Calculator recommends ingredients and percentages tailored to your product type and texture preference. It includes natural and vegan filters.