How to Make Cleansing Balm
Makeup Melting Balm Formulation Guide
A cleansing balm is a solid, oil-based cleanser that transforms into a silky liquid upon contact with skin. Unlike traditional balms, these are engineered with emulsifiers that allow them to "milk" when water is added, ensuring they rinse away cleanly along with makeup, sunscreen, and daily impurities.
Formulating a high-performance cleansing balm requires balancing the slip of liquid oils with the structure of waxes and the rinse-off efficiency of your emulsifier. This guide covers the essential techniques for creating professional-grade makeup melting balms that leave skin clean but never greasy.
Formula Structure
| Phase | Purpose | Typical % |
|---|---|---|
| Emulsifier | Enables water rinse-off | 10–20% |
| Butters | Texture & skin feel | 10–30% |
| Liquid Oils | Solvent for impurities | 55–85% |
| Waxes | Structuring agent | 0–5% |
Safety & Workspace
Microbial Safety Warning
Equipment
Essential
- Digital scale (0.01g accuracy)
- Double boiler or heat-safe beakers
- Infrared or probe thermometer
- Silicone spatula
- Wide-mouth glass or PET jars
Optional
- Mini whisk or milk frother
- Cosmetic spatulas (for end user)
- Pipettes for fragrance/actives
Key Ingredient Guide
Emulsifying Waxes (10–20%)
| Ingredient | Usage Range | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Polawax / Emulsifying Wax NF | 12–18% | Reliable, "milky" rinse-off |
| Olivem 1000 | 10–15% | Natural, olive-derived feel |
| PEG-7 Olivate (Olivem 300) | 12–18% | Lighter, gel-finish rinse-off; good for oily skin |
Cleansing Oils (55–85%)
| Oil | Usage Range | Benefits |
|---|---|---|
| MCT / Fractionated Coconut | 30–60% | Lightweight, high slip, stable |
| Sunflower Oil | 20–40% | Acne-safe, high linoleic |
| Castor Oil | 5–15% | Boosts cleansing & makeup removal |
| Squalane | 5–10% | Luxurious, skin-identical feel |
Butters & Waxes (10–35%)
- Shea Butter (10–25%): Classic balm texture, adds richness.
- Mango Butter (10–20%): Harder than shea, less greasy finish.
- Beeswax (1–3%): Use sparingly to increase melting point without ruining the "melt" on skin.
Formulate with BalmMath
Select Product Type
Open BalmMath and select "Cleansing Balm" from the product type dropdown. This activates the emulsifier validation checks.Input Emulsifiers
Add your chosen emulsifying wax (e.g., Polawax) in the Emulsifiers section. Target 15% for a reliable rinse-off.Balance Butters and Oils
Add butters (20%) and liquid oils (60-65%). Use the Hardness Meter to ensure your balm is solid at room temperature but melts easily.Finalize Additives
Review the auto-calculated antioxidant amount and add your preferred preservative and fragrance in the Additives section.Manufacturing Steps
Phase A (Heated Phase)
Weigh your emulsifying wax, butters, and oils into a heat-safe beaker.Melt
Heat in a double boiler until the mixture reaches 165–175°F (74–79°C) and is completely clear and liquid.Cool Down
Remove from heat and stir gently. Allow the mixture to cool to 140°F (60°C).Phase B (Cool Down Phase)
At 140°F (60°C), stir in your preservative, antioxidant (BalmMath calculates the type and amount for your oil blend), and fragrance/essential oils.Pour
Pour while still liquid into sanitized wide-mouth jars.Set
Allow the balms to set at room temperature. For a smoother finish, avoid moving the jars until they are fully solidified.Pro Tip
Troubleshooting
| If… | Then… | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Leaves oily residue | Low emulsifier % | Increase emulsifier to 15–20% |
| Doesn't melt on skin | Too much wax/hard butter | Reduce wax; increase liquid oils |
| Grainy texture | Shea butter cooled slowly | Melt fully; cool rapidly in fridge |
| Doesn't "milk" with water | Wrong emulsifier type | Use only O/W emulsifying waxes |
| Separation in jar | Uneven cooling or low solids | Add 2% beeswax or increase butters |
Frequently Asked Questions
Tip: Build your formula in BalmMath
BalmMath automatically analyzes the fatty acid profile of your oils to calculate the exact amount of antioxidant needed for maximum shelf life.