How to Make Emulsified Scrubs
Creamy, Self-Emulsifying Scrubs That Rinse Clean
Emulsified scrubs are a step up from basic oil-and-sugar scrubs. By adding emulsifying wax to the oil phase, you create a scrub that turns milky when it contacts water and rinses off without leaving a greasy residue. The result is a luxurious, spa-quality product that exfoliates and moisturizes in one step. Although the formula itself contains no water, scrubs are always used with wet hands in the shower, which introduces water and bacteria into the product. A broad-spectrum preservative is required for safe use.
Typical Formula Structure
- Exfoliant (Sugar/Salt): 40–60%
- Liquid Oils: 25–55%
- Emulsifying Wax: 3–15%
- Butters (optional): 0–20%
- Fatty Thickeners (optional): 0–5% (cetyl alcohol, stearic acid)
- Fragrance: 1–3%
- Preservative: Per manufacturer recommendation
- Antioxidant: Auto-calculated by the Balm Calculator based on fatty acid profile
The exfoliant goes in the Additives & Actives section of the Balm Calculator. The calculator will validate that your formula includes both emulsifying wax and a physical exfoliant.
Emulsified vs. Anhydrous Scrubs
Anhydrous Scrub
- Texture: Oily, gritty
- Rinse: Leaves oily film
- Ingredients: Oils + exfoliant
- Complexity: Beginner-friendly
- Best for: Very dry skin
Emulsified Scrub
- Texture: Creamy, smooth
- Rinse: Clean, no residue
- Ingredients: Oils + e-wax + exfoliant
- Complexity: Intermediate
- Best for: All skin types
Choosing Your Emulsifying Wax
- Polawax / Emulsifying Wax NF: Reliable all-purpose emulsifier. Creates a smooth, lotion-like feel on skin. 5–15%.
- BTMS-50: Conditioning emulsifier, leaves skin silky. Popular for scrubs. 5–10%.
- Olivem 1000: Derived from olive oil, creates a natural skin-feel. 5–10%.
- Cetyl Alcohol: Not an emulsifier on its own, but adding 2–5% alongside your e-wax improves texture and stability.
Best Oils for Emulsified Scrubs
- Sweet Almond Oil: Light, affordable, good slip. Classic scrub base.
- Coconut Oil (Fractionated): Stays liquid, odorless, long shelf life.
- Rice Bran Oil: Lightweight, contains natural antioxidants.
- Meadowfoam Seed Oil: Excellent stability, long-lasting moisture.
Adding 5–15% shea or mango butter creates a richer, thicker base that holds the exfoliant in suspension better.
Step-by-Step Process
- 1. Weigh All Ingredients: Measure oils, butters, and emulsifying wax separately from the exfoliant. Use a digital scale in grams.
- 2. Melt the Oil Phase: Combine liquid oils, butters, and emulsifying wax in a double boiler. Heat until everything is fully melted and clear (around 160–175°F / 71–79°C).
- 3. Stir & Cool: Remove from heat. Stir continuously as the mixture cools. It will begin to thicken and turn opaque as the emulsifying wax solidifies.
- 4. Add Fragrance, Preservative & Antioxidant: At about 140°F (60°C), stir in essential oils or fragrance oil, your preservative, and an antioxidant (the Balm Calculator auto-calculates the exact antioxidant amount based on the fatty acid content of your oils).
- 5. Continue Cooling: Keep stirring as it cools to about 110–120°F (43–49°C). The mixture should be thick and creamy, like soft frosting.
- 6. Fold in Exfoliant: Gently fold in sugar or salt. Don't over-stir — you want even distribution without melting the sugar.
- 7. Package Immediately: Spoon into jars while still warm enough to work with. The scrub will firm up as it fully cools.
How It Works on Skin
When you scoop the scrub and massage it onto wet skin, the emulsifying wax reacts with the water and turns the oils into a milky emulsion. This means the oils actually absorb into the skin instead of sitting on top. When you rinse, the emulsion washes away cleanly — no oily tub, no greasy residue.
Common Mistakes
- Adding sugar too hot: If the base is still liquid when you add sugar, it will dissolve. Wait until it's thick and opaque.
- Not enough e-wax: Less than 5% may not emulsify properly. The scrub will feel oily instead of creamy.
- Using coarse salt in a facial scrub: Salt is too harsh for delicate skin. Use fine sugar or jojoba beads for face products.
- Skipping the antioxidant: Oils will go rancid over time. The Balm Calculator analyzes the fatty acid profile of your oils and auto-calculates exactly how much antioxidant your formula needs.
Frequently Asked Questions
Related Resources
Tip: Use the Balm Calculator
Select "Scrub - Emulsified" as your product type in the Balm Calculator. It will validate that your formula includes emulsifying wax, a preservative, and a physical exfoliant, auto-calculate antioxidant needs based on your oils' fatty acid profiles, and generate a complete INCI list.